Garajonay National Park – Rainforest Walk

by Steve Gray

Garajonay National Park on the island of La Gomera offers some of the best hiking in the Canary Islands. Here you won’t find the razzle dazzle of Tenerife but a wonderful oasis of greenery shrouded in a cloak of swirling mist.

The World Heritage site of Garajonay National Park sits on top of this “orange squeezer” shaped island which rises to 1500m above sea level. The segments divided up by deep ravines. http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/garajonay/index.htm

The rainforest consists of Laurel or Laurisilva which at one time covered much of Western Europe. Pollution, man and climate change decimated large areas of this fauna but the isolation and clean air of La Gomera’s micro climate has ensured its survival. At present the biggest threat comes from summer fires.

Laurisilva is the name given to this particular fauna and as you make your way into the forest after the long and winding ascent to the summit by car you will be amazed by its medusa-like trunks and branches which are covered in a green moss.

The further you go the cooler and darker it gets, but the well trodden track is soft underfoot and easy to follow. Sleepy Hollow springs to mind as the fungus covered laurel reaches out. The contrast to the brown, baked, earth that surrounds this oasis is stark. These paths were created many years ago by locals who had to negotiate the forest in order to get from one side of the island to the other.

After an hour or so a stream is reached and the chance to replenish empty bottles. The lack of rain makes one wonder where the water comes from but the answer lies in the “horizontal” rain or mist that is soaked up by the forests vegetation.

After walking for an hour or so a stream is reached. This is derived from the moisture collected from horizontal rain or mist. A little further on the path opens to a settlement which contains a number of small holdings and a restaurant which servers local delicacies such as soup and Gofia (ground maize) to thicken it.

Finally, make your way along a short tarmac road to a hidden tunnel where your guide will present you with a lighted candle which is absolutely required as you traverse from one valley to the next. A truly memorable experience.

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